There are family holidays… and then there's Four Seasons —...
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@swordstravel
Lake Como doesn’t really need an introduction — it’s long been a magnet for elegance, romance, and those picture-perfect lakeside moments. With its impossibly still water, dramatic mountain backdrop and sleepy, sun-kissed villages dotted along the shore, it’s somewhere that manages to feel both glamorous and grounded. But hidden within its shoreline curves is a hotel that feels more like a cinematic dream than a place you can actually check into… Passalacqua.
We’ve both travelled a lot over the years — it’s part of the job, of course — but every so often, we visit somewhere that genuinely stops us in our tracks. Passalacqua did exactly that. Last April, we had the joy of slipping away from the buzz of daily life to spend two nights at this extraordinary retreat — and honestly, we’re still thinking about it.
So, here’s a peek into our time there, what we loved, and why we think this is one for your must-visit list.
The villa itself has serious history. Built in the 18th century as a private residence, it’s played host to musicians, writers, poets, and politicians — including none other than Bellini, the opera composer, who spent summers composing here with those same panoramic views of the lake that we woke up to each morning. It still feels like a place made for art and reflection — where every corner of the building seems to carry a story. And now, thanks to an extraordinary restoration by the De Santis family (the same family behind Grand Hotel Tremezzo), it’s been brought back to life as one of the most breathtaking and soulful hotels we’ve ever stayed in.
The hotel is tucked away in Moltrasio, a charming little village on what might be the most picturesque stretch of Lake Como. It’s quiet here — no tour buses, no crowds, just cobbled lanes winding through hillside homes and an elegant stillness that wraps around you the second you arrive.
Passalacqua is set high above the water, and its terraced gardens tumble down the hillside towards the lake. Each level offers something new — towering cypress trees, soft lawns dotted with parasols, little shaded benches for two, and that postcard-perfect swimming pool we’d been seeing on Instagram for months (yes, it’s even better in person).
From the top terrace, where the villa presides in all its golden-stone glory, you can look out across the lake and watch the light shift throughout the day — soft and milky in the morning, glittering in the afternoon, deep and blue just before dusk. We lost count of how many times we paused, took a breath, and just stood there quietly soaking it all in. It’s grand, of course. But never intimidating. There’s a warmth to Passalacqua — a real sense of care in the details, and in the people. You feel genuinely looked after, not just checked in.
Passalacqua’s accommodation is spread across three distinct buildings, each offering a different perspective on lakeside living — but all sharing that same relaxed, luxurious charm.
At the heart of it all is the main villa — grand, historic, and full of soul. Then there’s the Palazz, a more tucked-away residence set just beyond the main house, perfect for guests who crave a little extra privacy. And down by the water’s edge, you’ll find the Casa al Lago, where suites open out onto the lakefront for a breezy, barefoot-on-the-terrace kind of stay.
We stayed in one of the lakeview rooms in the main villa, and it was everything we’d hoped for — refined, peaceful, and full of thoughtful touches. The interiors strike a beautiful balance between heritage and comfort: soaring ceilings, delicate fabrics, antique furniture and soft lighting that makes the whole space feel warm and welcoming.
And then there’s the freestanding bathtub, perfectly placed for long, indulgent soaks with an uninterrupted view across the lake. With marble finishes, oversized robes, and the kind of locally made bath products you want to take home with you, the bathroom felt just as inviting as the rest of the suite.
Our days fell into a gentle rhythm almost immediately. Mornings started with lazy coffees and pastries in the sunshine, looking out over the gardens. There’s no pressure here. No sense of needing to be somewhere else, or rushing to fill your day. It’s a hotel that encourages you to just be. Evenings, though, are where Passalacqua truly shines.
The hotel’s signature dining space is housed in the main villa. It’s atmospheric and intimate, with beautifully dressed tables, soft lighting, and a subtle sense of occasion. In warmer months, the energy flows out onto the terrace, where you can eat beneath the stars with candlelight flickering across the lake and live music floating in from the lounge. It’s classic Italian hospitality — generous, warm, and completely unforced.
On our first evening, we went for the full experience. The service was impeccable — attentive but never overbearing — and the menu struck that perfect balance of regional tradition and modern finesse. The next night, we did the opposite. We skipped the formality and ordered pizzas and champagne out on the terrace as the sun slipped behind the hills. No plans, no overthinking — just a simple, perfect moment that felt entirely our own.
What we loved is that dining at Passalacqua never feels boxed in. There’s no endless list of restaurants — instead, meals are woven into the natural rhythm of your stay. You might find yourself having lunch in the conservatory one day, a garden breakfast the next, or stumbling upon a spontaneous cooking class happening under the olive trees.
As much as we could’ve happily stayed within the walls of Passalacqua for days, curiosity did get the better of us. The hotel helped arrange a private driver (which we’d absolutely recommend — it removes any stress from getting around), and we set off to explore a little more of the lake.
Our first stop was Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Passalacqua’s equally iconic sister property, and a long lunch by the water felt like the perfect way to start the day. Afterwards, we wandered the cobbled streets of Bellagio, did a little boutique browsing, and rounded things off with a private boat tour — which, if you’ve never done before, is a must. There’s something about seeing the villas and villages from the water that gives you a whole new appreciation for the scale, beauty, and sheer drama of Lake Como.
That said, as much as we loved our little outing, the real joy was coming back. Back through the garden gates, back to the stillness, back to that gentle Passalacqua pace. And what really makes the hotel special is how the magic isn’t just in the big gestures, but in the in-between moments. The things you stumble upon without planning.
Like a shaded terrace tucked between lemon trees, where guests gather for morning yoga or gelato-making sessions. A bocce court hidden beside the herb garden, where you might spot a guest (or staff member) casually challenging someone to a match. The chickens roaming freely near the vegetable beds. Or — our personal favourite — the outdoor running machine quietly perched above the lake, offering one of the most scenic cardio sessions we’ve ever seen.
After a few days at Passalacqua, time starts to blur in the best possible way. You lose track of hours, plans fade into background thoughts, and you begin to move at a slower, more instinctive pace — the one this place seems purpose-built for.
April was the sweet spot. Crisp mornings, bright skies, and that unmistakable freshness in the air that makes everything feel just a little more alive. The lake was still, the gardens just beginning to bloom, and the hotel had this quiet sense of being completely yours. We’d absolutely recommend pairing it with a few nights in Milan — start with city energy, aperitivos and culture, then let Passalacqua bring you back to earth in the most beautiful way.
This is a place for the romantics. The dreamers. The people who know that true luxury doesn’t need to shout (we rate it for honeymooners, wellness lovers, foodies and even solo travellers). Whether you’re marking a milestone, escaping the rush of real life, or simply seeking something soft and beautiful — this hotel delivers in every sense.
You’ll find moments here that stay with you. For us, the standout was simple: sitting on the terrace, champagne in hand, golden light skimming the water, and absolutely nothing to rush for. Just calm. Just contentment. That deep exhale you don’t even realise you’ve needed.
And yes — the iconic orange Fiat parked proudly in the drive is every bit as charming in person. You’ll spot it in photos before you arrive, but it’s even better when you see it in real life — a perfectly playful contrast to the villa’s grandeur, and a reminder that even here, style doesn’t take itself too seriously.
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