We began the journey with a four-hour drive from Nairobi to Sanctuary Tambarare, set in the heart of Ol Pejeta Conservancy — a 90,000-acre haven for wildlife and one of Kenya’s most respected conservation projects. The final hour of the drive takes you through the conservancy itself, and the safari starts early. Before I’d even reached camp, I’d already spotted zebra, giraffe and elephants. A pretty magical welcome.

Tambarare is home to just 10 luxury tents and one private villa, all tucked into the landscape and offering gorgeous views. I stayed in one of the tents — though “tent” doesn’t quite do it justice. Think: king-size bed (with an electric blanket!), a double sink vanity, walk-in shower, separate toilet, and thoughtful little touches everywhere. There’s turndown service, bug spray, netting, and a private veranda where I sat with a cup of coffee and just watched the wild roll past. 

The camp restaurant overlooks a watering hole — and one morning, during breakfast, a family of elephants came to drink. It was a proper pinch me moment. The food is superb, much of it grown onsite, and evenings are spent around the firepit with drinks and torches lighting the water where buffalo gather. Tambarare is more than just a place to stay — it’s part of something important. Guests are invited to plant a tree at the end of their visit, which felt like a lovely way to leave something behind. And the activities here are phenomenal: walking safaris, day and night drives, lion tracking, a visit to meet the K9 unit, and perhaps most poignantly, the chance to see the last two remaining Northern White Rhinos in the world.

Our final evening here ended with a sundowner set up in the wild — a full bar waiting for us, a glowing sky, and a line of zebras wandering across the horizon. I don’t think I’ll ever forget it.