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@frankiewentohollywood
Megève is the kind of place that makes you want to swap your ski helmet for a chic beret and pretend you’ve been coming here for generations. Nestled in the Haute-Savoie region of the French Alps, just an hour’s drive from Geneva, it’s long been a favourite of well-heeled Parisians seeking a more refined take on mountain life. Originally put on the map by the Rothschilds, the town still exudes an air of effortless sophistication—think cobbled streets, flickering lanterns, and boutiques where ‘just browsing’ feels borderline illegal.
The ski season runs from December to April, but Megève is more than its slopes. Whether it’s fireside apéritifs, Michelin-starred dining, or leisurely horse-drawn carriage rides through town, this is a resort that knows how to do winter properly. And in the Summer months, the town transforms into a haven for hiking, mountain biking, and enjoying the stunning alpine scenery without the crowds.
Our fantastic partner, Mason Rose, recently invited Francesca, one of our luxury travel associates on a trip to discover the magic of Hotel L’Alpaga—a discreet yet luxurious retreat just minutes from the town centre. Here’s her take on a few days filled with incredible food, adventure, and relaxation in the heart of the French Alps…
There’s a certain pace to Megève that’s impossible to ignore. Maybe it’s the sound of horse-drawn carriages gently clopping down the cobbled streets, or the scent of woodsmoke curling up from mountain chalets. Perhaps it’s the way the peaks seem to wrap the village in a quiet embrace, slowing everything down. Whatever it is, I felt it the second I stepped off the shuttle.
We were here to explore Hotel L’Alpaga, a five-star hideaway nestled into the hillside. It’s the kind of place that balances rustic charm with modern luxury—warm, inviting, and effortlessly stylish. My Deluxe Room was a gorgeous introduction to the hotel, with natural materials, soft lighting, panoramic views of Mont Blanc, and an atmosphere that surrounds you.
I had the chance to peek at some of the other accommodation types too. The suites, for instance, are ideal for families, offering between one to three bedrooms and plenty of space to spread out. With their own kitchens, living areas, and a fireplace to warm up by after a day on the slopes, they’re a perfect option for a more home-like stay.
Then there are the chalets—separate from the main hotel, they offer a whole different level of privacy and luxury. These fully equipped homes are perfect for larger groups or families who want their own space. You can hire chefs to prepare meals in your kitchen, or just enjoy the freedom to create your own meals. Regardless of which accommodation you choose, every corner of Hotel L’Alpaga feels like it’s designed to give you a retreat that’s truly yours—personal, peaceful, and with a sense of understated luxury.
From the moment I arrived, it was clear food was going to be a highlight. First up, a beautifully arranged platter of meat and cheese, paired with freshly baked bread, jams, and pickles, all served on the outdoor terrace with a mountain view that was nothing short of stunning. It was the perfect way to ease into the Alpine vibe.
Breakfast here sets the tone for the day—whether you prefer a leisurely sit-down with croissants and a strong coffee or filling your plate with local specialties, it’s an ideal way to fuel up for whatever your day has in store. If you’re looking to indulge a little more, opting for half-board means you’re all set with both breakfast and a gourmet dinner, leaving you free to focus on the adventure ahead without worrying about where to eat. Plus, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant is included so you’re in for a real treat.
Dining at La Table de L’Alpaga was a real treat. Each dish was a nod to the mountains—think earthy herbs, delicate flowers, and hints of fir. The award-winning menu plays with the elements—Earth, Water, Fire, and Air—bringing them to life in ways I never thought possible. The flavours were intricate and balanced, but the real magic came from the way each course made you feel like you were tasting the mountains themselves.
For a change of scene, we ventured into Megève town and dined at Le Torrent, a charming riverside spot that serves up traditional Savoyard dishes with a playful twist. The tartiflette spring rolls were oh so yummy—an inventive, fun take on a beloved classic that worked way better than you might expect. When you book with Swords, we’ll always make sure to give you the best restaurant recommendations and help with reservations that fit perfectly into your trip.
While skiing is, of course, a huge draw, we were treated to something entirely different during our stay. Enter the Yooner—a single ski with a seat attachment that lets you glide effortlessly down the mountain. After a quick lesson, we were off, flying down a scenic blue run with the wind in our hair. It’s easy to pick up, fun for all ages (agile 70-year-olds included!), and an absolute must-do for those looking for a fresh way to enjoy the slopes, particularly if you’re a non-skier but still want to feel part of the action.
For those in the mood for something a bit more traditional, we took a horse-drawn carriage ride from the centre of Megève. This is an experience steeped in the town’s history and is as enchanting as it sounds. Each carriage is carefully designed by its owner, with happy, well-cared-for horses leading the way through the picturesque streets.
And if you’re seeking more indulgence, Hotel L’Alpaga has plenty to offer beyond the slopes. The list of activities is as varied as it is tempting: you can soar above the Alps in a hot air balloon, or in the summer, explore the area with a cycling tour. There’s also a small kids’ club for younger guests, yoga sessions and a stunning outside wellness area to help unwind after a day on the slopes, and live music for a lively atmosphere in the evenings. And with a new outdoor cinema experience set to launch in Summer 2025, the hotel continues to innovate.
If I could craft the ultimate (and utterly relaxing) day at Hotel L’Alpaga, it would unfold like this…
Start with breakfast al fresco on the terrace, sipping freshly brewed coffee and choosing from endless varieties of pastries while soaking in the breathtaking mountain views. The crisp morning air and the towering peaks of Mont Blanc set the tone for a day of pure indulgence.
After breakfast, a visit to Natalie—the magician of massages. Her hands work wonders, kneading away any remnants of jet lag or tension. Post-massage, I’d head outdoors to the heated pool, wood-fired hot tub, and sauna, with panoramic views of Mont Blanc. It’s the perfect spot to clear your head and soak up the last traces of Alpine magic.
Next, I’d catch the shuttle into Megève town. Wandering through the cobbled streets lined with chic boutiques and artisan shops is a treat. A light, late lunch by the river would round off the excursion nicely, where you can watch the world go by while enjoying some local delicacies.
Pre-dinner, I’d spend a ‘leisurely’ amount of time getting ready. Soaking in the tub, perhaps reading on the balcony and perusing the dinner menu for the 20th time. You’ll want to visit La Table de L’Alpaga at least once during your stay, but take your time and work your way through every item on the menu.
This is a place for those who love discreet luxury. It’s understated yet indulgent, quiet yet full of character. Whether you’re a couple looking for a romantic getaway, a solo traveller in need of mountain air, or a foodie eager to explore Savoyard flavours, L’Alpaga delivers. Plus, with just a one-hour transfer from Geneva Airport and free shuttles into town every 30 minutes, it’s as effortless as it is exceptional.
Megève isn’t just about skiing—it’s about experiencing the Alps at a different pace. And Hotel L’Alpaga? It’s the perfect place to do just that. I would return (and bring everyone I know and love) in a heartbeat.
Thank you so much to Mason Rose and Hotel L’Alpaga for making it happen.
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